A few design directions are showing up in this coming season's gowns, both at the studio and across other designers. This piece runs through the prominent ones, with a note on which work well in a modest gown and which don't.
Structured sleeves
After a few seasons of softer, sheer sleeves, the structured sleeve is back: a long sleeve with real presence of its own, sometimes with a small shoulder cap, dense beading, or a strong-line lace. In a modest gown this kind of sleeve works well, because it was already a central element of the design rather than an add-on.
Longer trains
Mid-to-long trains have returned to the foreground after a period of more fitted shapes. The studio's upcoming collection includes two pieces with a cathedral-length train. Worth remembering: a long train needs someone helping to arrange it before every shot, otherwise it works less well in practice than it does on the hanger.
Focused beading
Rather than covering the entire gown in dense beadwork, more designers are concentrating beading in specific zones: the neckline, sleeve edges, the waistline, the train border. The result is usually cleaner and less busy, and is also less expensive to produce. At the studio it has become the default approach for most pieces in the new collection.
Textured fabrics
Layers of lace over a matte base fabric (rather than glossy satin) create depth and a softer play of light. The approach suits daytime weddings or venues with soft lighting, and works less well in venues with strong flash.
What doesn't always translate to a modest gown
Not every runway trend transfers cleanly to a bride who keeps modest dress. A sheer lace layer over a low neckline, a bare back covered only with tulle, a three-quarter sleeve. All of these require significant adaptation to work in a modest gown, and in most cases it is better to drop them and look for a different solution than to force a fit.
About the Author
Designer & Founder
Amalya Cohen has worked in bridal design for over a decade. She trained at fashion houses in Israel and abroad, and a few years ago opened an independent studio in Jerusalem specializing in dresses for brides who observe modesty. Read more about Amalya.
