A single gown at the studio takes three to five months of work for a collection piece, and up to twelve months for a bespoke design. This piece walks through the main stages of that work.
1. Sketch
A dress starts with a hand drawing on blank paper. For bespoke work the sketch follows from the conversation with the bride (cut, sleeve length, neckline, type of beading). For a collection piece it follows from the overall concept for the season.
2. Materials
Once there is a sketch, the materials can be chosen: which lace opens the sleeve, which base fabric carries the silhouette, which Swarovski stones and beads will be used. The materials are drawn from existing stock at the studio or ordered specifically from European suppliers.
3. Pattern and toile
Before expensive fabric is cut, a test garment is made in plain fabric in white or natural. This toile is pinned onto a mannequin in the bride's measurements, which makes it possible to see the silhouette and correct it before any expensive fabric is touched.
4. Cutting
Each piece is hand-cut, with the lace motif matched across seams so the pattern reads cleanly. This is the stage where earlier decisions become irreversible, so it is done slowly.
5. Beading
Every stone, bead, sequin, and pearl is set by hand. For a heavily beaded bodice that means between two hundred and four hundred hours of work by one seamstress. In a collection piece beading happens before final assembly; in a bespoke design it usually happens after the second fitting, once the silhouette is locked in.
6. Assembly
All the panels are joined together: the lace to the base fabric, the lining, the boning that holds the bodice's silhouette, the hidden zipper or buttons. By this stage the dress starts to look like itself.
7. Fittings and handover
At least three fittings before the wedding date: silhouette, seams and beading, and finally length and waistline. The gown is handed over in person, with storage instructions, a week before the wedding.
About the Author
Designer & Founder
Amalya Cohen has worked in bridal design for over a decade. She trained at fashion houses in Israel and abroad, and a few years ago opened an independent studio in Jerusalem specializing in dresses for brides who observe modesty. Read more about Amalya.
